What People Do For Fun In France

Last weekend, I decided it was high time I started looking into some of the cultural events Lyon has to offer. One of the things I complain about most in Chapel Hill, the town where I attend college, is that there isn’t enough to do. So I went and found me what seemed like a respectable cultural event in one of the weekly bulletins. It was called “Portes Ouvertes” and was essentially an opening of a bunch of art galleries on one particular street. It seemed like there was going to be some sort of show, but I failed to look into the details of this as I was distracted by the promise of a 50m long metallic snake. I was dead set on seeing that snake!

Then came the difficult part- finding someone to go with. I couldn’t get a hold of one of my friends, and another’s parents were in town for the weekend, so she was busy doing things with them. Then I got a hold of my friend Kathleen and she said she would like to go. Thirty minutes later she got back to me and said she had something else that she’d forgotten all about. Just as the dreaded words toute seule began to creep through my head, I managed to get in touch with another friend from orientation, who, with a bit of a reservation, agreed to go.

Getting there was, of course, no easy feat. I walked the opposite direction to meet my friend, thinking we would take the metro. But when we met up, she said she wanted to walk because she didn’t have a metro pass. It wasn’t that far away, but the streets were PACKED. I still don’t know if there was a particular event or if this is simply a typical Saturday in Lyon. Regardless, we had to basically shuffle our way down Rue de la Republique and this rendered both of us quite cranky. It didn’t help that my friend was simultaneously searching for the ever elusive toilettes. We were truly on the verge of calling it quits when the street presented itself before us. Now all I could think was how embarrassed I would be if this was a disappointment.

I don’t really know how I can begin to describe what we saw as we approached the top of the steep, cobblestone street. I will say first that I heard something akin to chanting. The chanting was coming from a group of people assembled in two lines, moving very slowly forward. They’re clothes were pointedly eccentric- costumes, almost. One guy was wearing a road cone for a hat. Other articles that stick out in memory are red ear muffs, pink and black striped knee socks, a silver jump suit, hot pants and a navy blue vest with nothing under it (on a man). How I wish I’d had my camera! I could have killed myself for forgetting it. As per usual, everyone else seemed to find the passing event perfectly normal while I stood their wide-eyed and baffled. But I was also delighted, fascinated. I felt as though I’d stumbled upon some sort of religious ceremony. My friend was not quite as impressed. In fact, she seemed downright disgusted, which made me feel like something of a heathen greedily devouring every aspect of an (undoubtedly) Dionysian celebration. She left after about ten minutes, when it became clear that I was going nowhere. But how could I be compelled to leave? The whole thing was just too damned bizarre to pass up. The best way I can think to describe it was modern dance meets eastern religion chanting routine. The group assembled and re-assembled in different forms, singing, chanting, and occasionally just running around aimlessly. It was a little eerie at times, and particularly surreal in the context of a usually quaint and pleasant cobblestone street. It seemed impossible that normal day-to-day life was going on one street down. Yes, indeed, it felt a bit like I’d stepped into another world entirely.

When they were finished dancing, they proceeded to play music. I’d been so absorbed by the show that I’d failed to even notice that there was an array of instruments waiting patiently by the side of the street. Later I found out this group is called The Very Big Experimental Toubifri Orchestra.

All in all, it was an extremely intense and exhilarating show that left me, a mere spectator, exhausted. I can’t imagine how the amount of energy it takes to perform a show like that, but I’m glad there are people who have what it takes. Another interesting thing about the performers was that there was really no homogeneity among them- all different ages, ethnicities etc. I wonder- is this their full time work? I can’t help but think eccentrics like this have to be among the world’s most content people. Doesn’t everyone secretly have a desire to wear a ridiculous outfit and go dancing in the street? Or not? Perhaps this blog is getting a tad too confessional…dammit!

At any rate, it was the perfect antidote to all the stringent and ridiculous bureaucracy (I have lovingly renamed it bureaucrap) that I and everyone I know has been dealing with lately. It’s hard to imagine any of those people ever applying for social security or standing in a long line at the bank (though of course, they must do these things). Odd as it is, the show really put all of these hassles I’ve been dealing with in perspective. If all else fails, I can always become a vagabond, run away and join the The Very Big Experimental Toubifri Orchestra I don’t have ear muffs but I do have a fabulous red wig.